I know the exact second I feel in love with Sea Ranch Lodge. I was lying on the window seat, staring at the sky, my mind processing each bit of incoming information: Nice blue sky, lots of pretty clouds, crashing waves, a group of birds…and right at that second, my mind stopped. It stopped processing information, it stopped naming things, it stopped assigning values of “nice” and “pretty” or making any judgments at all. Instead, my mind cleared and my eyes stopped roaming. They settled on the faraway, squiggly lines coasting on the wind. I finally noticed that these birds were…I suppose “dancing” is the best way to describe it. The two outermost birds on each side would loop up over the group and drop down into the middle, and then the next two would do the same. The dance seemed to be synchronized with the winds, which were in rhythm with the moving clouds and surf.

As I try to describe this in words right now, I’m sure the whole thing sounds pretty corny. But, back then, a feeling of bliss came over me. I think some people refer to this feeling as “being there” or a “Zen state” or “being present.” Whatever it’s called, it’s a feeling that is always wonderful…and often elusive. Yet, at Sea Ranch Lodge, it simply embraced me. There was something about staying there that beckoned me outdoors, into nature, out for long, long walks. It enticed me to truly see and feel and hear and smell and taste. And I ended up feeling more connected to the world than I had in a long time.

The Lodge is located on an ocean side cliff in the beautiful Sea Ranch area, at the northern tip of the Sonoma Coast. It’s single story and all the rooms have large windows with unobstructed views of the ocean, sky and horizon. So, it feels like there’s little separation between indoors and outdoors. I’d start off staring out the window, and then I’d slip outside, and then take a few more steps to look out over the cliff, and the next thing I knew, I was hiking for hours along the coastal paths. Between being outdoors so much, and having that blissful, relaxed feeling, I was able to see the coast with new eyes. And I cherish it even more now. For example, I remember looking around at one point and thinking in amazement: “Look at all of these flowers and colors and plants! How could I have ever thought of this coastline as windswept and barren?”

And as wonderful as it was to spend long hours outdoors, it was also fantastic to have the Lodge to return to. I knew there would be a delicious gourmet meal for me at the restaurant, and that I’d be seated next to ceiling-high windows overlooking the ocean—the perfect spot for sunset dining. And after that, I’d go to my cozy room and sit next to the fire. Or I could gaze out the window and see all the stars, far away from any city lights.

One thing I knew I would not be doing was watching TV late into the night—there was no TV set in our room. I hate to admit it now, but I was a little disappointed about that at first. My husband and I hadn’t had a weekend getaway for a long time, and we never have time to watch television. So, I had been looking forward to snuggling up and seeing a few shows. But, having to surrender those plans was definitely a blessing in disguise. Chances are, the day would have started out similarly to the way it had: I would have arrived at the Lodge and I would have been thrilled with the view from my room. I would have stared out the window and thought: “Nice blue sky, lots of pretty clouds, crashing waves, a group of birds…” And then, there’s a good chance I might have clicked on the TV set and busied my mind. But, I didn’t have that option. And so, despite myself, I found bliss instead.

The vibe: Sea Ranch Lodge has a serene and warm feel to it. The architecture of the Lodge, like all the buildings in Sea Ranch, is respectful of the environment. The earth tones blend in with the cliffs, while the large windows in each room pay homage to the sight of the ocean and clouds and sunsets by day, and the stars by night. In turn, the Lodge seems to attract a respectful, serene, nature-loving cliental. This is not a party-hardy kind of crowd. The people I met were interested in taking long hikes along the coast, reading by the fireplace in their rooms, and enjoying the meals in the restaurant.

Breakfast: A free breakfast is included with each night’s stay. And these are real, delicious, freshly-made breakfasts such as eggs Benedict (Sunday only), waffles with fruit topping, plus sides like sausage and bacon, and fresh-brewed coffee. Also, every seat in the restaurant has an amazing view. The outside walls of the room are basically ceiling-high windows looking out at the ocean.

Getting there: Drive north along the coast. It takes about an hour from Jenner.
From Jenner to Fort Ross, the route winds along the cliffs and offers some stunning views. The cliff-side, curvy part doesn’t last very long—but enough for some “oohs” and “aahs” and to feel like you’re actually on a road trip. Then, just before Fort Ross, the road mellows out and then it’s a simple, scenic drive to Sea Ranch Lodge.

MW